Lawn Maintenance

Lawn Maintenance seems simple enough, but each time you cut your grass you’re paving the way for your lawn’s success or failure. Mow correctly, and you’ll groom turf that’s healthy, drought-tolerant and thick enough to crowd out weeds. Mow incorrectly, and your lawn will struggle to survive. Time mowings so you’re never removing more than one-third of the total leaf surface (of a single grass blade) with each cutting.


Aerating is the process of mechanically removing cores of soil and grass to relieve compacted soil by improving the exchange of water and critical nutrients between the atmosphere and the grass roots. Soil compaction is a frequent cause of lawn deterioration caused by lawn traffic such as walking, pets, and mowing. Compaction is greatest in the top 2-3″ of soil. Soil compaction can have an adverse effect on the health of the lawn. Compact soil prevents the grass from establishing a healthy root system. Adequate amounts of vital lawn nutrients including water, oxygen, nitrates, phosphorus, and potassium are unable to reach the roots. Aeration relieves soil compaction by removing evenly-spaced plugs of soil up to 3″ in depth depending on the condition of the lawn. In drier climates like Colorado and especially in areas with bad soil, as is found in much of south Denver, aeration increases drought resistance while decreasing the amount of water required to keep the lawn healthy, green and lush. For optimal effectiveness we recommend aeration be done both spring and fall. Since the cost for aeration is often recovered in just a month or two from the amount of water saved, many customers are now opting for a mid-summer aeration as well.

Power Raking

Power raking removes the layer of thatch that prevents water from getting to your lawn’s roots where it is needed. Thatch builds up in your lawn and eventually becomes so thick that it prevents much of your water and fertilizer from getting through to the soil. This thatch causes your water to run off and evaporate costing you money by wasting water all summer long. The earlier in the spring you power rake, the more effective it’ll be, so be sure to call early!

When we power rake we use specific power rake equipment designed to remove the thatch at the base of your lawn while causing the least amount of stress possible. We do not use attachments that can rip and tear at the lawn.

We have a three step process to provide a quality, thorough job that will be most beneficial for your lawn. First we move the power rake around your lawn to loosen the dead thatch, second we hand rake the lawn and third we vacuum the lawn to leave it looking clean and rejuvenated.

Snowpack can cause lawns to be matted down and grey snow mold can form on the lawn. It is also beneficial to power rake if your lawn is suffering from necrotic ring fungus.


Tree & Bush

We are here to help you with some basic tips on how to care for your trees and shrubs so that together we can build a beautiful retreat – as close as your own back yard.

Tree Care

Tree care doesn’t have to be a highly technical or complicated subject, since most trees fend for themselves pretty well. By following some “tree basics” it’s easy to promote healthy growth in trees.

Thoroughly water a tree’s entire root zone during periods of drought with the equivalent of one-inch of water, once every week or two, depending on soil type. Apply slowly to prevent runoff.

Use caution around trees with de-icers and herbicides.

Plant improved varieties of trees. Selected varieties have more resistance to common disease problems.

Remove undesirable, problem trees. Plant desirable trees in their place

Tree Fertilization

Recent studies have shown that surface applications of fertilizer, at the right time of year, can be as effective as deep feeding methods. These surface applications should be timed for late fall or early spring, when tree tops are still dormant yet roots are active. Roots remain active until the soil drops below 40-degrees F and this period includes several weeks after leaf drop in fall, and a few weeks before spring bud break. Therefore, these applications would be considered dormant feedings. Most trees like a 2-1-1 fertilizer analysis, such as a 20-10-10 or 10-5-5. Since it is difficult for phosphorus to move through the soil, we will provide it during the planting. An organic source of phosphorus used is bone meal. Phosphorus promotes rooting, as well as blossoms, in trees that flower.

Tree & bush feeding is a service many of you have had us do for years . With proven results, our fall feeding provides your plants with the extra nutrients and gives them the help they need to stay healthy all year long. Healthy, properly fed trees and shrubs are more disease and drought tolerant and they stay healthier all year long.

Tree and Shrub Pruning

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage. Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production.

Basic Pruning:
Basic Pruning consists of removing dead, dying, diseased, interfering and weak branches, as well as selective thinning to lessen wind resistance. Deadwood up to approximately ½” in diameter may remain within the main leaf area.

Mid-Grade Pruning:
Mid-Grade Pruning consists of removing dead, dying, diseased, interfering and weak branches. Deadwood up to 1″ in diameter may remain within the main leaf area.

Heavy Pruning:
Heavy pruning consists of the removal of dead, dying, diseased or obviously weak branches, 2″ in diameter or greater.

Flowering Trees:
Most flowering trees set their blossoms the year before they bloom. Therefore, they won’t bloom if these flower buds are trimmed off the tree. The best rule is to always trim flowering trees within 3 weeks of when they finish blooming. That should prevent you from inadvertently removing buds containing next year’s flower show.

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